The laying cycle of a chicken flock is cyclical in nature, particularly in northern latitudes with its seasonally fluctuating hours of light and dark. Egg production normally begins when young birds reach maturity, rises sharply and reaches a peak about eight weeks after it starts, then gradually declines over about 12 total months of lay. For most spring hatched birds, the first adult molt occurs in their second fall at the end of their first laying cycle. The total number of eggs laid in that first laying cycle is the highest single year of production the hen will ever experience, as successive years will see a decrease in eggs laid of approximately 15%-20% annually.
Many factors can adversely affect egg production during a hen's normal laying cycle. Egg production can be affected by the age/breed of chicken, feed consumption (quality and quantity), water intake, intensity and duration of light levels, parasite infestation, disease, and numerous management and environmental factors. A few of the most common are listed here.
Age of Hens
Pullets normally start to lay between 20-24 weeks of age, depending on breed and line. Some large, slow growing breeds can take up to seven months. However, these timelines are dependent on light levels being above 14 hours of daylight. For those like us who are in northern latitudes, this means that pullets hatched later in spring and summer may not begin to lay before the light levels decrease dramatically in autumn. In order to lay successfully through their first winter, birds may either need to be hatched early in the year to obtain maturity before light levels decrease, or to be maintained on supplemental lighting beginning in fall of their hatch year. If allowed to mature naturally, later-in-the-season hatched chicks may not begin to lay until after the winter solstice. The upside to this later beginning of laying is that hens have had longer to mature and may begin their lay cycle with larger eggs and omit the "pullet" egg stage.
Chickens can live for many years and continue to lay eggs for many of these years. However, after two or three years many hens significantly decline in productivity. This varies greatly from bird to bird, within lines of the same breed and between various breeds. Good heritage layers will lay consistently for 3-5 years, high production hatchery hybrids may lay almost daily for only a year or two. Poorer layers and older hens will lay less consistently. If consistent egg production is critical, then a yearly addition of pullets should be scheduled to occur. If hatched in the early spring, they will normally begin laying by fall and continue (sometimes at less than maximum levels) through winter. If hatched in the late summer/early fall they will be ready to begin laying by spring.
Lighting Conditions
Light triggers a hen's pineal gland, located behind her eye and under the bones of her skull, to initiate the process of egg laying. Regular egg laying requires 14-16 hours of light and decreased daylight hours in fall and winter can cause egg production to decline or stop completely. Supplemental lights can be added to the coop to encourage egg laying, while recognizing that additional factors also influence egg production. It will not force them to lay. Adding lights in the fall, as light levels begin to drop, is best done by adding 20-30 minutes a week in the mornings until 15 hours of light is reached. A sunrise/sunset chart for your latitude can be found online and is helpful. A timer is needed to keep the light consistent and the light itself only needs to be bright enough to "read a newspaper by" as the old flock masters described it. One caution, there is some evidence that adding supplemental lighting before pullets are fully mature in size can lead to perpetually smaller eggs and lower than expected production. Nature may know best when pullets are ready.
Molting
Molting is the natural process of feather shedding and re-growth. Hens divert protein and energy away from egg production to grow a new set of feathers every fall. Feathers in good condition are crucial for a bird's protection from the elements, and the shiny new feathers they sport are a sharp contrast to the dull, often bleached feathers that they shed at the end of summer. The molt is also a time to replenish bone stores and vitamin levels, as well as gain muscle lost during egg production.
Broodiness
During spring and summer, some hens will show a tendency to go broody. This is the inclination to "set" on the nest and hatch chicks. If a hen is hunched and growling in the nest box, her neck hackles flaring when you reach for her, she is feeling the hormonal urge to reproduce. While broody, a hen will not lay eggs. And the very presence of a broody hen will encourage the other hens of her flock to become broody too so that it can become a cascading behavior. Broodies should either be allowed to hatch chicks, away from the other birds, or broken of their broodiness as soon as possible so that egg production will resume.
Nutrition
In order to be productive egg layers, hens must receive adequate nutrition and have full time access to clean water, granite grit and calcium. Nutrition starts at hatch (actually before, with breeder rations for the parents) and chicks should receive balanced rations appropriate for each stage of growth (starter, grower, layer). Feed should always be offered in a manner that allows all birds to eat at once, or more dominant birds may keep more submissive birds from eating their ration. Ensuring the correct level of protein for your flock, while also rationing their feed to prevent overeating, is a cornerstone for good egg production. Each adult bird should be provided with one ounce of complete feed per pound of body weight per day. Most standard bred and heritage breeds do best on feeds that contain a protein level of 18%. Any treats or other feed additives should be limited to no more than 5% of all food consumed, as higher levels will reduce the protein needed for good egg production. Too many treats can also add fat to the birds, and the combination of too much fat and too little protein is cause for low rates of lay in many backyard flocks. Additionally, too much vegetable matter can lead to the formation of runny egg whites. Conversely, too much protein can lead to increased egg size. This can be a health challenge for hens who are more likely to prolapse when trying to lay an extra large egg.
Water
Eggs contain a large amount of liquid, so hens need a constant source of clean, fresh water. They will drink twice as much water a day as they eat food. If water is allowed to become too warm in summer, they will drink less than needed for good egg production.
Parasites and Illness
Hens not in optimal health will show a decreased rate of lay. A drop in egg production can indicate that birds are infected with parasites such as mites, lice and worms. If a new bird has been introduced into the flock, it may have introduced an illness or parasites and all of the birds should be investigated for signs.
Stress (predators, social, environmental)
Hens are sensitive to change and disturbances in their environment. Introduction of new flock mates, change of living situation, new feed, predators, loud activity outside their yard, hot weather, sudden weather changes, and loud dogs are all factors that can lead to a decrease in egg production.
Many factors can adversely affect egg production during a hen's normal laying cycle. Egg production can be affected by the age/breed of chicken, feed consumption (quality and quantity), water intake, intensity and duration of light levels, parasite infestation, disease, and numerous management and environmental factors. A few of the most common are listed here.
Age of Hens
Pullets normally start to lay between 20-24 weeks of age, depending on breed and line. Some large, slow growing breeds can take up to seven months. However, these timelines are dependent on light levels being above 14 hours of daylight. For those like us who are in northern latitudes, this means that pullets hatched later in spring and summer may not begin to lay before the light levels decrease dramatically in autumn. In order to lay successfully through their first winter, birds may either need to be hatched early in the year to obtain maturity before light levels decrease, or to be maintained on supplemental lighting beginning in fall of their hatch year. If allowed to mature naturally, later-in-the-season hatched chicks may not begin to lay until after the winter solstice. The upside to this later beginning of laying is that hens have had longer to mature and may begin their lay cycle with larger eggs and omit the "pullet" egg stage.
Chickens can live for many years and continue to lay eggs for many of these years. However, after two or three years many hens significantly decline in productivity. This varies greatly from bird to bird, within lines of the same breed and between various breeds. Good heritage layers will lay consistently for 3-5 years, high production hatchery hybrids may lay almost daily for only a year or two. Poorer layers and older hens will lay less consistently. If consistent egg production is critical, then a yearly addition of pullets should be scheduled to occur. If hatched in the early spring, they will normally begin laying by fall and continue (sometimes at less than maximum levels) through winter. If hatched in the late summer/early fall they will be ready to begin laying by spring.
Lighting Conditions
Light triggers a hen's pineal gland, located behind her eye and under the bones of her skull, to initiate the process of egg laying. Regular egg laying requires 14-16 hours of light and decreased daylight hours in fall and winter can cause egg production to decline or stop completely. Supplemental lights can be added to the coop to encourage egg laying, while recognizing that additional factors also influence egg production. It will not force them to lay. Adding lights in the fall, as light levels begin to drop, is best done by adding 20-30 minutes a week in the mornings until 15 hours of light is reached. A sunrise/sunset chart for your latitude can be found online and is helpful. A timer is needed to keep the light consistent and the light itself only needs to be bright enough to "read a newspaper by" as the old flock masters described it. One caution, there is some evidence that adding supplemental lighting before pullets are fully mature in size can lead to perpetually smaller eggs and lower than expected production. Nature may know best when pullets are ready.
Molting
Molting is the natural process of feather shedding and re-growth. Hens divert protein and energy away from egg production to grow a new set of feathers every fall. Feathers in good condition are crucial for a bird's protection from the elements, and the shiny new feathers they sport are a sharp contrast to the dull, often bleached feathers that they shed at the end of summer. The molt is also a time to replenish bone stores and vitamin levels, as well as gain muscle lost during egg production.
Broodiness
During spring and summer, some hens will show a tendency to go broody. This is the inclination to "set" on the nest and hatch chicks. If a hen is hunched and growling in the nest box, her neck hackles flaring when you reach for her, she is feeling the hormonal urge to reproduce. While broody, a hen will not lay eggs. And the very presence of a broody hen will encourage the other hens of her flock to become broody too so that it can become a cascading behavior. Broodies should either be allowed to hatch chicks, away from the other birds, or broken of their broodiness as soon as possible so that egg production will resume.
Nutrition
In order to be productive egg layers, hens must receive adequate nutrition and have full time access to clean water, granite grit and calcium. Nutrition starts at hatch (actually before, with breeder rations for the parents) and chicks should receive balanced rations appropriate for each stage of growth (starter, grower, layer). Feed should always be offered in a manner that allows all birds to eat at once, or more dominant birds may keep more submissive birds from eating their ration. Ensuring the correct level of protein for your flock, while also rationing their feed to prevent overeating, is a cornerstone for good egg production. Each adult bird should be provided with one ounce of complete feed per pound of body weight per day. Most standard bred and heritage breeds do best on feeds that contain a protein level of 18%. Any treats or other feed additives should be limited to no more than 5% of all food consumed, as higher levels will reduce the protein needed for good egg production. Too many treats can also add fat to the birds, and the combination of too much fat and too little protein is cause for low rates of lay in many backyard flocks. Additionally, too much vegetable matter can lead to the formation of runny egg whites. Conversely, too much protein can lead to increased egg size. This can be a health challenge for hens who are more likely to prolapse when trying to lay an extra large egg.
Water
Eggs contain a large amount of liquid, so hens need a constant source of clean, fresh water. They will drink twice as much water a day as they eat food. If water is allowed to become too warm in summer, they will drink less than needed for good egg production.
Parasites and Illness
Hens not in optimal health will show a decreased rate of lay. A drop in egg production can indicate that birds are infected with parasites such as mites, lice and worms. If a new bird has been introduced into the flock, it may have introduced an illness or parasites and all of the birds should be investigated for signs.
Stress (predators, social, environmental)
Hens are sensitive to change and disturbances in their environment. Introduction of new flock mates, change of living situation, new feed, predators, loud activity outside their yard, hot weather, sudden weather changes, and loud dogs are all factors that can lead to a decrease in egg production.